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Sassi
Bale Review - At the Sassi
Bale Restaurant you get cuisine that has identity. Although not all strictly
Italian it is elegant, uncluttered and
it understands its roots. As my Venezian
father-in-law once said, good food has
its own taste, allow it to be. |
Renowned chef Tony Sassi has built a reputation on
delivering modern Italian food with a
robust, almost rustic heart and an abiding
simplicity. With Sassi you don’t get
fusion, you get food to remember.
My dinner partner and I began our evening with
oysters, freshly shucked, topped with chives
and a spritzy salmon caviar. These were not
overdressed ostrich but delicately
structured textural treats.
We followed this with the Sassi carpaccio, in which
wafers of raw Atlantic salmon sat superbly
with their dressing of extra virgin olive
and citrus soy. Meanwhile, the floating top
note provided by the chili and herbs worked
all the flavours together into an appetite
whetting whole.
You’d expect Sassi to deliver mouth filling flavour
in his pastas and he didn’t disappoint
with tagliatelle nero con gamberi. Here he
balances the integrity of traditional
Italian flavours with a lighter,
contemporary touch, exemplified by the basil
and lemon sauce and the breeziness of the
prawns. The house made squid ink pasta added
a visual underline that gave the dish a
little something extra.
For mains we treated ourselves the piatto del
pescatore, a virtual smorgasbord of ocean
delight. Seafood platters are not a daring
inclusion on any menu, but it is rare to
experience one with so much flavour so
thoughtfully concocted. Right from the
unadorned calamari to the perfectly cooked,
silky textured reef fish and the mouth
puckering, sea salty shiver of the oysters,
the Sassi platter is a sensual affair. In
this, a certain deftness of touch is
evident, with textures and flavors across a
range; yet with a restraint that speaks
volumes.
Dolce maintain the standard. The white chocolate
zabaglione with strawberry, blueberry and
mint salad is not only eye candy but a lush,
indulgent finish. Without yielding to simple
sugariness, this treat has a mouth filling
feel to it, a creaminess smartly offset by
the sharp/sweet zip of the berries in
Amaretto.
All the while we were also
savouring the finessed tropicality of the
luxurious poolside setting, the well matched
wine list and attentive service. We left
with fresh memories implanted of a dining
experience miles above the average.
Sassi
Restaurant - Port Douglas
Australia
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